Some hairstyles don't cost a lot. If you're looking to get a shape up at a barber, or a relaxer at a salon, you pretty much know how much you're going to wind up paying at the end of it all. When it comes to natural hair, it ain't that predictable or that easy.

I just wrote about all of this here, in a lengthy post titled The Natural Hair Tax. Allow me to share recent experiences I had at three Chicago area salons.
Experience #1 – I walk into a salon that looks like it can accomodate my needs. It's filled with beautiful black men and women, doing hair and getting their hair done, but I see mostly relaxers and heat straightening techniques being used. When I walk in, you can practically hear the sound of a record player screeching to a halt. Everyone turns to look.
"Hi, do you do natural hair here?"
"Our natural stylist isn't in today. Here's her card. Call to make an appointment."
"Oh OK...well, can you let me know how much she charges for twists?"
"I don't know, but *looks at me with raised eyebrows* I'd say about $150."
Experience #2 – I walk into a beautiful, brightly colored, black owned salon. Some of the stylists have natural hair done up in intricate styles. The walls are adorned with African-inspired art. I feel like I'm in the right place. I look at the price list - relaxers cost $65. Hair color starts at $45. Rates for natural hair all begin at $100. And there's an asterisk after that last zero.
I'm finally able to speak with a stylist, who is busy flat ironing someone's hair.
"Hi, can you let me know how much it would cost for me to get twists? Two strand, kinky, Senegalese..."
*looks me up and down*
"I'd say $125. Around there."
Experience #3 – visiting a salon that boldly has "natural hair" painted on one of their windows.
I walk in, and nobody even acknowledges my presence. After a while a receptionist makes her way over to me.
"Hi, I've got a question. Do you have a price list, or a pamphlet with information about the price you charge for natural hairstyles?"
"You mean to press it straight?"
"Uh...no. I was looking for twists, a natural hairstyle. I don't want heat on my hair."
*blank stare* "Oh. Cause that's what we do. Let me go ask somebody."
Receptionist returns with a male stylist. When he sees me, he utters a concerned "oooh," and proceeds to immediately put his hands on my scalp, to feel the roots of my hair - without even so much as an introduction.
Me: "Hi, uh...do you do twists?"
Hairstylist: *still feeling my hair* "I mostly do maintainance. Do you want to start locs or something?"
"No, I just want to get twists."
"Oh, no. I don't do those from the beginning, I can help you maintain them though."
All three experiences ended the same – with me leaving dejectedly, unlikely to return.
From what I've gathered thus far, other cities have more of a reputation for great natural hairsalons at a range of prices -- New York, DC, Philly, and Atlanta seem to have it on lock!
The reasons for hairstylists charging high prices ranges in reason. Natural hairstyles can take a long time, depending on the intricacy of the style, and natural hairstyling does require a skill set that honestly isn't taught in traditional beauty schools. But at this time in my life, I can't justify paying more than $100 for a hairdo. Anything more than that, and you might hear about me pulling a Kelis move.
I'm still searching to find the right stylist for me here in the Chi. And because price is a factor, the quest continues on.
Have you encountered the natural hair tax? What are your thoughts?


Comments: (34)
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By: ahothen on 4/12/2010 5:13PM
Hi, I live in the pacific northwest,Seattle to be exact.The fact taht i am a senior citizen should not make the hunt for a pleasant, stylist harder.when i have tried to get infomation on what to expect, care, maintenace etc. abrubt and rude is the style of the day. are stylist the only ones exempt from the economic down spiral? if they felt it ,i belive customer service would be a higher priority. where to get a directory of natural hair stylist in the northwest? we have black hair here too.
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By: jayah on 5/13/2010 12:34PM
I’ve been natural for at least 25 years. During that time I’ve: braided, cornrowed, twisted, cut and ‘fro’ed. For a while I sported a TWA; now my hair is shoulder length. I’ve been with the same stylist for the past 20 years. (Sad to say: this is the longest committed relationship I’ve ever had.) I first met E at Hair Cuttery, as I transitioned from TWA. She would wash, condition, blow-dry, and braid or cornrow. Maybe about 7 years ago, she started doing hair in her house. I get the full treatment: wash, condition, (depending on the style) blow-dry, and styled (be it braided, cornrowed, single- or double-strand twist). Over time, her prices have been consistent, with a slight increase over time – from $35 to $45 currently. However, because of the economy and being out of work, I had to dramatically trim my budget. For the past 18 months, I’ve been doing my hair myself – wash, condition, and usually two-stranded twist or twist out. Thank you (what I call the) BGHC – Black Gurl’s Hair Channel – on YouTube! I wish I could afford the $45/mo, but until then…
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By: jenniferstewart on 5/27/2010 8:33PM
my dad took me too a salon it was a referal from a lady at work he told the lady my daughter's hair is all natural she looke'd at him they won't do her hair then sorry mr stewart so my dad looke'd finalll'y my mom just simply took me too her hair stylist i got what i wante'd and still retaine'd my natural hair it's sad my dad told her that in this day and age afro's as oppose'd too when they were younger are not universall'y accepte'd amongst black people even now in the store's i get pretty nasty glance's but on the flip side when im with my stepmom who is from norway i get thumb's up from white men it's so ethnic or diverse or cute or wow you do that on your own as if as if by saying your mixe'd race daughter has natural hair wow your so lucky then she goes she's my stepdaughter but thank you
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By: Karen on 6/01/2010 10:22PM
I've been twisting, locking and braiding 2 of my sons hair for at least 10 years now. I don't have a license so I just do their hair only. I've had people ask me all of the time to do their locks and twists but without a license, I decline. BTW, they don't give me a dime for my time, designs, and materials. Now that I see how much 'stylists' charge, I may have to rethink doing this/
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