
The Naïve Years. Left to right, me in second and third grades. Those two cornrows were go-to style #1 and the sassy pigtails were #2.
The first time I chemically straightened my hair it was because I really really wanted a perm - in fact I'd wanted one for over a year. I'd had childlike cornrows, a braid bang that needed to be curled with a sponge roller at night, and a press n' curl that caused other girls at school to call me "a bushwacker."


Vanessa Huxtable. That's me in 1990 on the far left with an Easter press n' curl. It only ever lasted one day. By seventh grade, my attempt at "bangs." No wonder I was such a moody tween.
I wanted the bone straight look that all of the other girls in my seventh grade class had. My hair is very thick, never did take a press very well, and my hairline is...shall we say...distinctive. I wanted to pass through the hallways unnoticed and be done with the controversy. After some begging, my mother (the pragmatist) scheduled an appointment for me at her salon, and my father (the free spirit) was supposed to pick me up from school as he usually did and take me straight there. When I got into his car I reminded him about the appointment but he said flatly, "Oh, I know all about it. I'm not taking you to that," and took me home. I was only a little disappointed because if you know my dad his protest was no surprise, and if you know my mom she efficiently rescheduled and took me to the salon that following Saturday instead - she spent way too much time doing my hair and, as you can see above, when I was left to my own devices the results were rather Vanessa Huxtable-esque.

The early perm days. My 7th grade class photo (I blinked). All of that fuss just to be...regular.
Come Monday, all of the girls who'd already had perms for a while oooh'd and ahh'd at what I'd "finally" accomplished. "It's about time!" one particularly hoodrattish girl announced in the cafeteria (she now has the gall to friend request me on Facebook, by the way). It was an achievement similar to my first successful Double Dutch turn and other "black stuff," that I had to learn quickly after leaving private school for public school; most of the other black girls at my new school pretty much considered me the whitest black thing they'd ever seen and they had no problem reminding me of that on at least a weekly basis. So, to be less white, I finally got a perm. This is where black hair gets complicated, because literally the last thing I wanted to do with a permanent relaxer was be white or appeal to a European beauty ideal - in fact at private school I'd had a few run-ins with white people over hair issues¹ but back then I didn't even know or care what a perm was. At my new school I just wanted to fit in, and my father's Afrocentrism, a bit of him not wanting his daughter to grow up, and perhaps his very fuzzy idea of what it's like to be an eleven year-old-girl, would only allow him to see that a perm in any context had to be a bad thing.
From then on, Hyacinth at "Vincent's Creations" nipped awkwardness in the bud with a bi-monthly dose of Bantu No-Lye Relaxer. I permed my hair - just like almost everyone else - all throughout middle and high school, and aside from a few sets of box braids I never considered otherwise. Thanks to my last, and best, hairdresser Carla, I even dabbled in ponytail pieces for my junior and senior proms. That woman's accuracy in creating a curl of the right size and in the right spot rivaled the marksmanship of a paid assassin, but I always preferred the plainest styles possible.

Peek-a-boo, I see you. I was growing out that late 1990's black lady mullet in my senior class photo. Not a word about my eyebrows, please.
Fast-forward to college and imagine me on a student budget with no Carla nearby, and the strand-snapping cold of Cambridge, Massachusetts combined with dormitory hard water creating the worst hair care environment ever. Plenty of women maintain relaxed hair up there but it just wasn't the same for me. Shoot, Carla did hair in her basement and I was more comfortable there than I was at the super bougie salon favored by my Harvard peers. Not only did they all return with poufy roller sets instead of the sleek urban look I favored, but judging by who was giving it rave reviews I sensed that there was a "good hair," culture brewing at that salon and I didn't want any part of it. You see, although I was no longer familiar with my natural hair I knew that not everyone needed a strong and serious relaxer every six weeks like clockwork to keep their hair straight (i.e. they had 'good hair'). I did (i.e. I had 'bad hair'), and I certainly was not in the mood to be looked down upon for that fact.

Never trust a big butt and a smile. By my college years, I was addicted to Isoplus Oil Sheen in the blue spray can.
Thanks to my penny pinching and lack of a good salon, by sophomore year the health of my hair had seriously declined. Every time I went home I'd prioritize squeezing in an appointment with Carla but it was a losing battle. The deathblow on my almost-shoulder-length swoop bang look was dyeing my hair, a choice that, although she was willing, even Carla was worried about. The color was an amazing reddish-sunset-brown and I was really impressed with myself - that is, until it really started falling out. I was developing a bald spot in the back of my head that even creative styling wasn't helping much to cover. By the next time I saw Carla she broke the news: I had no choice. I had to cut it off.

Hallay Burrrrrrray, Hallay Burray. This photo doesn't even look like me but is one of only a handful that exist of my short cut during the summer of 1999.
I'd never had hair past my shoulders and I was grown now so a short cut could be cute, right? Yeah, except for the fact that I've never had any dexterity whatsoever with a curling iron, so the tiny rows of curls in varying sizes never looked anywhere near as sharp when I did them at home as they did when I left the salon - I was always strugglin'. I also felt a little bit too bald-headed with the back of my head exposed like that. My Halle Berry phase lasted two short months and I moved on to simple and elegant human-hair micro braids. Although the Senegalese lady who braided my hair would fuss about how much "Nègre" hair I had and threaten to upcharge me for daring to put her through a twelve hour braiding ordeal, I refused her nasty little perm kits repeatedly. I didn't know it at the time, but I'd had my last perm.

Wet N' Wavy #33. The human hair braid debacle of 1999-2000 included being mistaken for my roommate, also pictured. I didn't appreciate that.
After braiding and un-braiding my hair so many times I started to really notice my new growth in bulk - it was kind of fun so I chopped of the now sorrowfully dead permed ends but kept on braiding. But there were problems: I was growing tired of being mistaken for my fellow brown and thick friend who also had a head of (homegrown) human hair braids, and I was too old for the dynamic duo nonsense. Meanwhile the Philadelphia Neo-soul movement was growing so I had natural hair role-models. I put clippings of Jill Scott, Kina (who had THE hair I wanted), and random bushy-headed chicks from Essence on the walls of my junior year dorm room as I plotted the big change. The mean girls from seventh grade were long gone, and I was a confident twenty-one year old woman who did spoken word poetry and had just gotten her first tattoo. Carol's Daughter products were the hot new thing and smelled soooo much better than the Wet N' Wavy leave in conditioner I'd been constantly spraying on my braids, and I was finally open to having short hair. I'd always been proud of my heritage but I was even prouder that I had so much hair after a year of not perming - it wasn't at all the coarse texture I expected and was so healthy. I'd also gotten pretty good at tying up a headwrap so I had no fear of bad hair days. Blending in started to sound like a bad idea. I came home from a summer away in 2000 and took out my braids to reveal a head of coils that I sometimes blew out or twisted but usually dyed a brownish-reddish color.


Fisher Price My First Afro. Harvard yearbook photo from when my naps were still new, me at a Studio 54 party with a mini-blowout.
Nine years later I've done a bunch of other things too, but chemically straightening my hair happens to not be one of them.
Do you remember your first, and if there was one, last perm? Please share stories in the comments.
[1] A little off-topic, but for most of elementary school I wore my hair in two corn-rows like in the first photo. One day everyone was playing in each other's hair and one of the bossier girls convinced me to let her undo my braids, which of course she was unable to put back, so my hair was everywhichaway for the rest of the afternoon. I was crying so hard when my dad came to get me that day, but it was a good lesson – do not let people play in your hair!
Thembi Ford is a pop culture critic via print, online, and broadcast. Her blog, "What Would Thembi Do" is a cross between cultural commentary, entertainment opinion, black pop culture, and, above all else, humor writing. This piece is part of her series "Black Hair Talk," which takes a deeper look at issues surrounding hair in the black community.


Comments: (22)
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By: Toni on 9/02/2009 5:09PM
LOL! Great editorial and the 'off topic' experience was a hoot! I remember after just a short period of time of perming I had to start from scratch as my hair had broken off so badly. I went from pressing past shoulder length hair in eigth grade to (snap your fingers) perming length in the ninth - and then to a Jheri Curl of all things! Thinking it would get my length back. Agonizing hours of processing changed the texture of my hair and the condition of my scalp. Fast forward a few decades of curl, no curl, natural, perm and now texturizer. I'm now satisfied.
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By: Gina K. W. on 9/03/2009 1:08AM
Loved the topic, it takes me back many moons of difficulties with my changes of hair colors, shapes, sizes, and weaved inn’s, sewed inn’s and lets not for get the glue inn’s styles (forty years worth I tell yell’ a). Due to chemical burns to my scalp from, Cresco press-n-curls, staying in way to long bad perms, and sizzling Jheri curls as a child. I have been for more that seven years chemically free. YEAH!!! I began sister locking my hair two years ago. I loved every minute of it. But, do to fear of what others may have thought of my hair, it took me along time to do the right thing for me. A couple of months ago my locks did fall out due to stress. I have since cut them all off and started over again. It feels so good to be free to do me. I love to see my sisters finding there true natural selves. I do hope that a lot more can come to the light… Feeling naturally textured FREE is a WONDERFUL thing. Everyone keep up the good work. Baby I am Satisfied!!!
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By: Karima on 9/03/2009 11:33AM
I love this journey. I am somewhat going through this right now. I still have not fully accepted my kinky hair though. I keep pressing it but have not chemically straightened. I love my micro braids but they are damaging as well. I just wore my mini afro for the first time and received lots of compliments. We have all been brainwashed into wanting straight hair for so long that it's difficult to get away from. I must say the heat from getting my hair pressed was almost as bad as the chemical burns from the relaxer. Hopefully I'll find some natural styles I love like a love the braids and I can upload some pics!
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By: Thawovi on 9/03/2009 2:44PM
This sounded so much like my story. I have always had a thick head of hair also. I went from pressing, to perming, to jheri curling, back to perms, to braids, to natural, then back to perms, and now, I am natural again. I dealt with being picked on, because my hair wasn't as straight as other girls, to being talked about because I wore my hair different. I wish that people would get out of the "good hair is ALWAYS straight hair" mentality. After all the damage that I did to my hair and my scalp, after all the time I took to get it straight, perming, flat-ironing, curling...now, I am embracing my natural hair. People still ask me to this day, why did I decide to do that, or "so you like the nappy look, huh?" And to answer them, yes I do, I feel free from the bondage of trying to fit in and be like everyone else. I am learning to love myself just as God made me. People fail to realize that true beauty lies in nature. We can go and look at a sunset, or a mountain, or the trees in the fall, and proclaim how beautiful they are, but when we look at people, who, like each of the scenes listed, are different, but beautiful in their own, God-given way, we can't accept them for who they are. I choose from this day on, to not only accept myself as I am, but to also accept others the way they are!
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By: christina_keys on 9/04/2009 4:48PM
My name is Christina, and I have never had a relaxer/color/texturizer in my life. Why???
My mom said, "no," even when I begged her. She would gush at how much she loved my natural hair, always wanting to touch it.
I thank her the most for doing that. Now, when black women talk about how liberating natural hair is, I don't feel the same. I gues because I have always felt liberated, so much that it makes no difference anymore. I love my hair, and I am not biracial or multicultural or "mixed."
I am black and I will and always love my natural hair:-)
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By: alicia on 9/04/2009 11:12PM
I don't remember my first perm exactly. I was around 10. My last perm I remember well, I was 23...and I never looked back.
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By: Dora on 9/05/2009 12:13PM
I love this article! It took me over 30 years to realize that the best hair for me is my natural hair. I don't remember my first perm, but my last one was about a year ago. Since then, I have been challenged with learning how to work with and style my hair, because it is very thick. I actually never really learned how to deal with it, because I went from having my mom braid it as a child, to using a straightening comb, and then the perm. About ten years ago I started wearing box braids and corn row extensions, but they can be very damaging if you're not careful. Now I mostly wear it pulled back with a clip-on afro puff for work. This is easy to manage and looks professional. On weekends, I get creative! Working with my hair is an ongoing learning curve, but I don't intend to look back. Thanks again for posting this article.
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By: reggie45 on 9/05/2009 6:31PM
this is a great article. my journey began when my sister was diagnosed with a serious illness and she had to have chemo, all of her long beautiful hair fell out. six months later her natural hair was shoulder length.i decide to go natural after i saw how thick, full and healthy her hair had grown. i have been natural for a year and a half! my sister has since died but she inspired me to embrace who i am because life is too short... i miss you baby sis...
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By: jess on 9/05/2009 7:26PM
Perm/relaxer 1: 18? No, 19. I had one of those fancy Japanese thermal get-ups at the end of my freshman year of college, and it wasn't done all the way, so I ended up pretty Einsteiny. Whatever it was I did, my hair looks very healthy in pictures. Just a big shiny shock of hair.
Last relaxer: 2006?... uh 21? Going to school in a town where there aren't many salons that cater to my kind of hair leaves for making it easier just to grow the darn thing out. I was also too cheap to pay for it (even though it was my mom's money). Like you, I tended to get it done whenever I was home, in my mom's friend's kitchen. So it grew out, and I had crazy hair, because I now wanted braids, I was tired of the upkeep. I had braids in 8-06, so maybe my last relaxer was 3-06, which would actually make me 20. Sounds right, I probably got it done over spring break, it had grown a bit by the middle of April.
I once went to one "known for being black" salon looking for a wash and press, and the woman has the nerve to look at me and rudely say "oh no we don't do that here, we just do chemical stuff". Then she goes to play with my friend's blue-dyed hair. The reason my friend's hair is in such nice condition is because she's mixed, ffs. I didn't refer anyone I knew to that salon.
I went to Wal-mart, the cashier asked how long I'd been natural, and I looked at her like she was crazy, because I'd just given up and let it do its thing. I didn't think I was doing anything special. But I was glad she asked, because I'd been getting dirty looks from those of us with their hair relaxed. WTF. To be black, your hair needs to be chemically killed. :(
A few months ago, a friend asked why I wore my hair the way I do. That's the way it grows out of my head... isn't that why she wears hers the way she wears it?
I'm now torn between a relaxer and braids, but I don't want to pay for braids/weave or a relaxer/upkeep, and hooray for hair politics! I'm looking for a job, and sadly I'm certain that I will probably have to "tame" my hair to find anything decent(I was "the black girl" in my dept/year...) . I know if I go the chemical-death route, I can grow it out. I love my hair, but I'm ready for a change. I want what's on my head to be mine, and not have to worry about everything else that comes along with how I choose to do my hair.
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By: chrystal in the hollyweird on 9/12/2009 9:04AM
I am going through the same dilemma as to what to do with my hair. I have an 8 inch afro that I love to wear. With an afro there is alot of "upkeep and maintainence" but it is not a chemical upkeep. I don't have to spend $75-300 on weave, braids, twists,extensions if I don't want to. I am personally trying to stay away from relaxers and texterizers.
I have hispanic people at my home asking why don't I straighten my hair like theirs. I tell them that I don't want to and I this is what goes out of my scalp like their hair. Hispanics are not very accepting of of the Black hair and the genetics that cause us to have hair the way we do. I assume everybody is suppose to kill and damage their hair to be more acceptable and white.
Right now since I will be going into the job market soon because I will be laid off by year's end, I am wondering what to do with my hair. I know here in Los Angeles, females with afros are not acceptable and are intimidating. I have a large and unruly one. I like it that way because it matches my personality. I get the feeling I will have to "tame" the fro to get a job.
I went and put straight "blondish" weave in my hair about a month ago. You wouldn't believe the attention I got from the guys at work and from people across the board. So in essence I have to change my ethnicity for people to find me attractive. however I did like the attention. But and what cost to myself? I often struggle with the idea that I might be losing my ethicity my hair to be more appealing and to get a mate. Sure there are men that like women with afros but very few. There is a stigma with an afro.
If you have to tame yourself to get a job then it might be worth it considering the economy. Perhaps you can make a deal cut it down so it isn't as intimidating.
I would love to hear from you.
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